The Gardener's Spot
Strawberry
Plant Information
Origin: Europe
Sci. Name: Strawberry
Family: Rosaceae
Sow'n
Swoing Depth: N/A
Indoors: Not Recommended
Outdoors: 3 wks Before last
Frost
Spacing: 12 in (30 cm)
Days To Germination: N/A
Seed Life: N/A
Grow'n
Watering: Moderate
Sunshine: Full Sun
Height: 12 in (30 cm)
Width: 8 in (20 cm)
Nutrient levels: N-mod, P-mod,
K-mod
Companion Plants: Melon
Bad Companions: Cabbage
family
Overview:
Wild strawberries can be found growing all over Europe, but the varieties
that we grow in our gardens today were developed in France in about 1740.
They are a wonderful addition to a home garden because they are so easy
to grow and produce so well, but that is not taking into account the
wonderful taste.
You haven't tasted a good strawberry until you have gone out to your
strawberry patch and picked a sun warmed, ripe strawberry. Be careful to
keep this a secret though, or you might attract all the neighbor kids to come
raid the patch.
Planting and Growing:
Begin planning for strawberries by selecting a good permanent spot in the
garden, as they will be there for a while. They need a sunny spot with at
least 8 hours of direct sunlight starting in early spring, in order to produce a
maximum crop. They require a well-drained soil, so work in lots of organic
matter before planting the strawberry starts, and clear all perennial weeds
in the planting site, as they do not compete well with weeds.
There are 3 categories of strawberries: June-bearers, Everbearers, and
Day-neutrals.
Start June-bearer buds in the fall, and then reopen them in the spring to set
the fruit that will ripen from May to July, the main crop being in June. This
is a great variety if you want to preserve your strawberries in jams and
jellies, or for freezing. You get a big crop in a relatively short time, but
none the rest of the year.
Everbearers are quite similar to June-bearers except they produce buds
during long days and have 2 smaller crops. The first is in the spring and the
second in the fall.
Day-neutrals produce flower buds when outside temperatures are less than
70 degrees F (21 degrees C) and usually produce a light crop throughout
the season. There are so many varieties that the best thing to do is ask
someone at a local nursery which is the best for your climate.
There are a few different ways to plant strawberries. One way is to plant
them in a raised bed in matted fashion. Place the plants about 18-24"
(45-60 cm) apart. They will propagate themselves, and send off shoots or
daughter plants. The patch will need to be thinned out every year or two,
pulling the older plants and keeping the daughters. If they are left without
thinning, they will produce smaller berries.
Another option of planting strawberries is to plant in matted rows. Plant
them in rows 3 feet (1 m) apart and 18-24" (45-60 cm) apart in the row.
Mulch heavily in-between the rows so that daughter plants cannot take root
in the walking path. The parent plants will need to be thinned after each
harvest season so be sure to allow new daughter plants to take root. Keep
the soil moist in the row so that the daughter plants can take root.
An annual hill system is used for everbearing or day-neutral types, but can
also be used for June-bearing. Space the plants in a diamond pattern
12-15" (30-38 cm) apart, and do not let any daughter plants take root. Lay
down a layer of black, plastic mulch before planting and slice "X" shaped
holes where the plants will be placed. This helps control weeds and doesn't
allow the daughter plants to take root. Plant the everbearers and
day-neutrals early in spring and clip off all the first blossoms to allow the
plant more time to establish a good root system. They will produce a crop
in late spring and again in the fall. These plants will only last a year or two
and need to be replanted.
Strawberries will also do well in containers like planters or barrels. In order
to have a good harvest, keep the moisture levels in the soil high and
fertilize every 3 to 4 weeks.
Plant strawberry starts by covering only the roots and the base of the plant
with dirt, leaving as much of the crown above the soil as possible. Then,
keep the soil moist so the starts can establish a good root system. It is best
to use a drip system to water strawberries to control dieses. If a sprinkler
system is used, water in the mornings so the leaves can dry in the sun.
The strawberry patch will require a balanced fertilizer each spring, and then
again after the harvest, to ensure good flower bud formation.
Harvesting and Preserving:
Harvest the strawberries when they are red, but still firm. It is best to
harvest the strawberries early in the morning every other day when they are
in full production mode. If the strawberries become over ripe, they will
attract bugs and diseases.
When picking, place the strawberries in containers no more than 3" (7 cm)
deep to prevent bruising and crushing. Place in the refrigerator immediately
after picking in a high humidity drawer to maximize shelf life. Wait to wash
them until they are ready to be used.
Frozen strawberries are a quick, easy way to preserve, and make an
excellent treat. Wash the strawberries and cut off the caps. Place the
strawberries on a cookies sheet lined with tin foil, and spread out evenly
one layer deep. Put the cookie sheet in the freezer for 12-24 hours, or until
frozen. Then, collect all the strawberries and place them in the freezer,
sealed in a freezer Ziploc bag.
Strawberries can also be used to make preserves and jams.
Sunflower
Winter Squash